Prag Reseguide

Spanning 516 meters across the Vltava River, the pedestrians-only Charles Bridge is a beautiful historic walkway that's well-traveled during the day. Impromptu musical performances entertain the crowds and photographers sell their work; the spectacle on the cobblestone bridge almost distracts tourists from the Castle looming on the nearby hill. Twilight or sunrise strolls provide peace and quiet, not to mention unforgettable views of the city's spires silhouetted against the colored sky. Take a closer look at some of the thirty Baroque-style statues of saints lining the bridge and the enormous gothic towers on either end.  « dölj

Glittering on the hill behind the Charles Bridge, the Castle is the largest of its kind in Europe. While taking a moment to catch their breath after the steep walk up to the entrance, visitors often find themselves overwhelmed by the scale of the sprawling complex. Reading up on the Castle's offerings ahead of time is the best way to figure out which attractions are of particular interest. Everyone should see the towering St. Vitus Cathedral, featuring a stained glass window by Alphonse Mucha, and the formal changing of the guard. The Paradise Garden, the art collections in the Riding School, the Golden Lane, St. George's Basilica, among others, are worth stops; buy whichever combination ticket allows entrance into the desired sites. Don't miss the breathtaking view over the city from the ramparts along the edge of the castle wall.  « dölj

Prague's two major squares, the charming Old Town and the massive Wenceslas, serve rather different functions: the first is a largely pedestrians-only historical site featuring notable churches, while the latter is more of a commercial center, often jammed with traffic on the far end where the National Museum sits. But both squares are loaded with fascinating architecture, and they're only a few minutes' stroll apart. Start in Old Town, where the Astronomical Clock draws a crowd for a whimsical little mechanical show at the turn of the hour and the twin towers of Tyn Cathedral soar high above. Meander over to Wenceslas, where the street-level views leave something to be desired, but the colorful Art Nouveau architecture on the upper stories often causes visitors to stop and gawk - the best angles are from the parallel sidewalk across the street, safely out of the reach of honking cars and garbage trucks making their rounds on the perimeter of the square.  « dölj

An art nouveau master and the toast of Paris just before the turn of the century, Alphonse Mucha was a prolific artist whose dreamy posters have become a symbol of Prague. The small gallery honoring his work is a stone's throw from Wenceslas Square; spending an hour or two here is delightful because unlike some of Prague's larger but less important museums, the gallery is not overwhelming. Admire the posters in the front hall, usually grouped into four images that follow a theme - four women, for example, representing spring, summer, fall, and winter. Check out the Sarah Bernhardt posters that catapulted Mucha to fame, and his later, more political work that reflects the Czech Republic's rocky history. The informational video on his life and times, shown periodically in a small screening room in the back, is very well-done. Few visitors manage to get out of the gallery without dropping some cash on the lovely Mucha-inspired souvenirs- postcards, prints, stationery, even umbrellas- in the connected gift shop.  « dölj

This forested hill, rising up behind the Mala Strana quarter, was made famous in memorable scenes written by Milan Kundera and Franz Kafka. On weekends, it's a local favorite for picnics and dog-walking, but tourists flock there everyday for unsurpassed views of the city and the Castle. The Hunger Wall, built in 1360-62 under the order of Charles IV, the Eiffel Tower-inspired lookout tower, and the Hall of Mirrors at the top are all frequently visited attractions, though the most pleasant activity is simply walking around the wooded paths or having coffee or a glass of wine at the cafe located halfway up the hill. Most travelers catch the gondola up to the top; those looking to get their heart rates up can go by foot any time of the day. Don't miss the contemporary Communist memorial at the foot of the hill, near the gondola station.  « dölj

Right off Wenceslas Square, this downtown nightclub is a little rough around the edges. But the fun, unpretentious 80's nights bring in packs of young locals and travelers who dance along to early Madonna music videos on the theatre-size big screen. It's sweaty, cheap, and often comical, with drinks flowing freely all night. The venue also hosts concerts and benefits; check local listings to find out what's happening.  « dölj

Once a theatre, this warehouse-like dance club is a local favorite for house music, avant-garde video projections, and inexpensive drinks. The DJs bring in serious music lovers and not too many tourists. Enjoy the rules-free environment but don't come without a serious urge to get your groove on.  « dölj

One of Prague's many treasures is the lively theatre scene- but unlike in so many cities, where tickets to the opera cost more than the hotel room, Prague's offerings are unbelievably inexpensive. Whether visitors want to see a performance of Gisele, a holiday children's classic like The Nutcracker, or an impassioned opera such as Carmen, the rotating schedule of performances at historic downtown theatres like Narodni Divadlo are bound to please. Go early for champagne in the ornate parlor, then take a velvet seat in the gorgeous gilded theatre. Taking one's eyes off the rich paintings and glittering chandeliers long enough to see the curtain go up always proves a challenge.  « dölj